Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Session3: Exploring the Collaborative Development Between the Fragrance Formulator and the Cleaning Product Manufacturer Not Only Sustainable But Safe

The third session of the Sustainable Fragrance 2009 for Cleaners conference was not the typical wrap up session maybe intended. It actually opened the need for more resolution. The tone was of course as polite and open as the prior sessions. Since there were frequent references from the speakers on prior talks, I will insert a few Green Nose opinions for balance as several were not in attendance. 


WHAT IS A SUSTAINABLE, GREEN AND/OR A NATURAL FRAGRANCE?, Reed Doyle, Director of Strategic Sourcing, Seventh Generation

Like the opening speaker, Reed quickly demonstrated original, thought provoking, compelling statements while he shared his journey and how it married well when seeking improvement with Seventh Generation. Establishing standards such as "do less bad", seek to ask the right questions, don't bargain with yourself, and it's about health and wellness (stupid) guides them.

Mr. Doyle helped to explain how/ why they are leaders in their categories by understanding public perception drives shelf movement, therefor they developed custom "natural" formulas. They look for point of sale differences; not try to act like competition; and use green standards as guidelines to often exceed. 

Exceeding guidelines can develop a lack of trust with self regulated agencies as represented by the conference's co-chairs as Seventh Generation wants full disclosure and questions vendors about numerous data gaps. Reed did say that eventually all vendors do disclose in particular as his company create their own benchmarks for continuous improvement like eliminating impurities.

Do download this speech when available.



THINGS WE NEED TO REMEMBER ABOUT THE BASIC SCIENCE OF POISONS, Ladd Smith, President, RIFM, US

Ladd gave an extremely well versed presentation. He spoke how everything is a potential poison, on RIFM's risk assessment standards, and testing is based on human biology.

A large question posed was are we tolerant of naturally occurring hazards? This eventually lead to the new perspective of holistic ecology. [reminder to download this speech]

As this was the second mention of holistic ecology, The Green Nose surmised how this idology shift does not change RIFM's previous positions and humbly keeps them relevant. So many outcomes when embracing diversity even scientific diversity!


DESIGNING SUSTAINABLE FRAGRANCES, co-presenters Michelle Harper, Director of Fragrance Evaluation, Cynthia Reichard, ExecVP Client Services, Arylessence Inc

Outstanding presentation on evaluating your sustainable message, melding it to current trends and justifications for defending the use of fragrances. As this was marketing specific, I suggest this be downloaded or visit their website. 

Both speakers sent positive sustainability messages and are seeking well intended outcomes. 


AN IN VITRO SCREENING SYSTEM THAT IDENTIFIES SKIN SENSITIZATION, Jim McKim, Chief Science Officer, Ceetox

I found the talk amazing and an demonstration how advanced skin testing has recently become in order to eliminate animal testing. Jim highlighted numerous benefits to their techniques which includes, time, cost, animal saver; fills REACH data gaps quicker; meets EU requirements; an ethical approach; satisfies consumer pressure; helps provide a marketing message and avoids uncertainty factors.

This testing method is more predictive for early events and other outcomes like airways. The system is consistent with previous benchmarks. It also provides a tiered assay approach, and can screen a larger number. Again please download and support this type of testing.



THE DERMAL SENSITIZATION QUANTITATIVE RISK ASSESSMENT (QRA) FOR FRAGRANCE INGREDIENTS, Anne Marie Api, VP HUMAN Health Sciences Program, RIFM

Dr. Api opened by discussing the EU banned allergen materials. These items will not harm the environment and the original researchers have announced their intent was only to identify items that should appear on labels, not to suggest a ban.

Anne Marie described the QRA approach which is available on the RIFM site and when the conference publishes the presentations. A change was noted that exposure will be evaluated by dose metric as dose per metric area.

There will also be some teeth in RIFM standards compliance with hard surface cleaners. Market samples will be evaluated and any non-compliant fragrance company will be posted on their website. 



THE CONSUMER PRODUCT INGREDIENT COMMUNICATION INITIATIVE, Michelle Radecki, General Counsel, The Soap and Detergent Association

Ms. Radecki opened her presentation on the issue/ trend of fragrance transparency to counterpoint Mr Burr's justification. She offered that a skillful GC/MS does not completely reveal all the ingredients thus the formula should still be protected.  [actually it reveals all of the molecules within a vapor range to +/- 95% identification] The current labeling law was enacted in 1974 and fragrances were granted an exception. The recent proposal by CA legislation SB509, proposed no exception for fragrances nor dyes. RIFM lobbied for an exception/ different agreement on behalf of it's membership.   

Currently SDA is developing a model for responding to NGO's like Women's Voices for the Earth and Earth Justice.  SDA can only encourage members to support the process.

Michelle's complete presentation will be available shortly.



COLLABORATION FOR SUSTAINABILITY, Suzanne McCormick, Director of Fragrance Development, Method, US and Colin McIntosh, Director Regulatory Affairs, Firmenich

Method developed a fragrance pilot collaboration in order to further it's corporate directive for a cradle to cradle process. The collaboration included a formula review process respecting the intellectual property protection for their vendors. Firmenich was the first house to participate which eventually included all of their fragrance suppliers. Suzanne felt the protocol went well enough to enact a fragrance switch.

Suzanne was asked if Method would release the protocol and she promised to ask management.
The program included reviews for toxicity, endocrine disruption, contact sensitization, CMR effects, bioaccumulation, and biodegradation. 

With Firmenich, Method developed the criteria for biodegradation and bioaccumulation with acknowledgement of data gaps. Primary discussions included how the material dissipates and reviewing its multi-dimensional characteristics. Naturals were ok but the item would be eliminated if it didn't have a good profile. They stated the program took time to enact.

On questioning they stated they started with the original odor profile/ compound and revised accordingly. 

It should be noted that Dr. William Troy, VP and General Manager of Product Safety & Regulatory at Firmenich could not co present due to a schedule conflict. Dr. Troy is also the president of FMA and serves on the RIFM board. The protocol seems consistent with the environmental positions championed by association spokespersons/ members on the Fragrance TAC. I hope it meets or exceeds the soon to be released DfE module.



  



  



 


Monday, June 8, 2009

Session2 report: Building a Framwork for Environmentally Preferable Product Recognition

Based on the tone from earlier technical session, I expected some moments of nerd rage during the second session of the Sustainable Fragrance 2009 for Cleaners. It was very civil although I started to detect "cradle washing" when guidelines/ standards for biodegradation were self declared.
 

CREATING SUSTAINABLE FRAGRANCES: A PERFUMER'S VIEW, Steve Schuh, Director Fragrance R&D, Bell Flavors & Fragrances

Perfumers are the most expert members of a Fragrance firm. Except for a few unique individuals, they need to be surrounded by other organizational disiplines to help shape policy, procedures and guidance. Mr. Schuh seemed to grasp the latter issues and did not focus solely on needs. 

He described the project assessment stages to identify key customers, the potential for a sustainable technical response and what needs to be done for current projects and forward thinking needs. Specifically an internal company culture must be developed.

Steve did mention an analysis of their client mix and only 0.5% of Bell's projects during 2008 requested an "eco" guided technical request. That small amount did reflect an increase of 5% over 2007. Natural blend submissions were 12.5% of all technical service requests.

Mr. Schuh also brought with him a set of demonstration perfume oil samples that reflected the odor change if an existing formula needed modification from eco-like material restrictions. Although the end-use was not specifically mentioned, a revision for an I&I kitchen cleaner that had incidental direct food contact would eliminate about 50% of raw materials if the starting formula was a cucumber and green tea type compound. 

Steve highlighted that there are no guidelines known to him for Biodegradable standards. He then proposed a wish list as follows:
*continued efforts to develop replacements
*increase research for new materials using eco quality guidelines
*more unified guidelines of what is acceptable/ isn't
*increased industry involvement from SDA, IFRA and more published data 

To the Green Nose, Steve made a very fair assessment of what knowledge and tools a middle size supplier needs to service the needs of many and be expert in guiding clients to an environmentally preferable product.



EPA DESIGN FOR THE ENVIRONMENT (DfE) SCREEN FOR SAFER SUBSTITUTES IN FRAGRANCES, Libby Sommer, Environmental Scientist, EPA Design for the Environment

Libby walked through some of the boiler plate definitions of the DfE program and principles that guide them. One, identify; two, use transparent criteria; and three, provide a rapid response. Her message is on the EPA.org website and also on the conference link in a few weeks.

More importantly, the environmental fate section is not yet completed thus effecting a very critical process stage, the Fragrance Module. It might be finished by the end of July subject to review. It was hoped when the convention program was developed to have been presented today by Libby.  It will be the corner stone for the DfE program. 


THE CLEANGREDIENTS(r) FRAGRANCE'S MODULE: DEVELOPMENT AND APPROACH, Topher Buck, Senior Project Manager, CleanGredients

CleanGredients is typical of NGO's. They have support finical support from a foundation and sponsor/ subscribing companies. They have just passed 400 members who perform material searches of their listing. Their objective is to create enough material data for green chemistry users without compromising confidential intellectual property.

Once the module work is completed, CleanGredients will list all of the fragrance companies that have the capabilities to produce DfE fragrances. Topher is open to suggestions on how this would be the most meaningful to the formulators and Fragrance houses.


DELIVERING SUSTAINABLE FRAGRANCES FOR CLEANING PRODUCTS: A HOLISTIC & INTEGRATED APPROACH, Greg Adamson, Global VP Regulatory Affairs, Givaudan

Dr. Adamson presented a very thorough paper with a complete grasp of the subject matter along with suggestions. This presentation represents a compassionate and corporate viewpoint.
Greg started by affirming his personal and considered opinion that fragrance materials are very safe and not just for water but air and soil.

He does feel that better communication might solve the misunderstandings over sustainability because it is always evolving and could mean about anything. But he stated it is not about marketing but solid scientific positioning that includes balance; lifestyle thinking; chemistry; and managing perception. 

Greg also stated their is enough data for QSAR modeling, just build the models early in the process. He would like to see from Givaudan and other suppliers more efficient process chemistry; high impact odor molecules; environmental testing on biodegradability; reduction or reclaimed solvents; renewable feed stocks and waste reduction; upfront regulatory and toxicology. These are his safest options.

But he offered that safety in use has defined standards and sustainability and biodegradability is not yet defined. And the USA consumer is not yet convinced on any definition which includes synthetics vs naturals. Greg did vouch on naturals safety record if used in the right way. 

Greg's basic appeal was to embrace holistic science as the new paradigm. Holistic science is based on the phenomenon of inter-connectiveness at all levels. 

When I summarize, this is one of the presentations worthy of comment.


EVALUATING FRAGRANCES IN CERTIFICATION, Mark T. Petruzzi, VP of Certification & Strategic Relations, Green Seal

Green Seal is focused on products used in public spaces. These areas have to employ standards to protect the vulnerable. To do so Green Seal wants more disclosure for their product labeling. Mostly they go above and beyond and fragrance free is always the fall back. There is a difference between retail products of which 99% has fragrance. Whereas I&I cleaners, Green Seal's focus, more then 50% of certified products have a fragrance free variant.

Whether a product is rinsed off or leave on Green Seal is concerned about chronic inhlation  and sewage treatment standards. Naturals are of concern as 90% of the standards are ingredient based.



EPA's SUSTAINABLE FUTURES PROGRAM, Bill Waugh, Toxicologist, US EPA

Bill gave a very spirited presentation that should also be downloaded when available. He drew initially the example that most folk are exposed to the EPA through the pesticide registration program. Pesticides like drugs are designed to kill therefore safety is important. In the programs like DfE the reviews are based on risk assessment. In his 30 plus years most chemicals, 40,000 tested to date, have no data. And the EPA has only 90 days to predict important properties based on chemical structure. 

Mr. Waugh talked to the future and said a program has already been road tested (beta) with select chemical companies. A demonstration is forthcoming at Givaudan's Hanover facility in the next couple of months. It is based off a PBT profiler.

The profiler has been peer reviewed and cost $100 mm in resources. It also identifies chemicals of concern. Essentially for new/ all chemicals the program finds a chemical that is close and has data on human health which starts the analysis. It is EPA's job to drive risk reduction. This is referred to as Pollution Prevention (P2). 








   

Sustainable Fragrances for Cleaners Conference

Before I review the presentations, please let me state that they were all very well done, thoughtful and contextual to the topic. I intend to review each speech but due to a personal scheduling conflict I will need to report the topics first before summerizing. The IntertechPira folks will be posting the full program in a few weeks. This post covers the session devoted to the quest for sustainablity drivers and innovation. The next post will cover sessions two and three.

 
MAKING SUSTAINABILITY BEAUTIFUL, Chandler Burr, Perfume Critic, NYTimes

Probably the best opening presentation to a technical seminar I attended. Mr. Burr managed to touch on each known attribute reflecting a serious study. He was effective enough that nearly all of the remaining presenters made a reference to him in support or disagreement on various issues. His personal flair or stylistic emotions for the industry did not falsely color his salient arguments. Was he technically light in places? Of course but he mentioned how he sourced the info. Mr. Burr offered: one, not supporting ingredient transparency is moronic. Two, prevention is best served by reducing dosage. Three, there are very good examples of corporate stewardship to communicate. Four, methods exist for testing biodegradation.

Mr. Burr did start out by questioning the audience on specific raw materials and introduced various cultural, economic, energy consumption and agricultural realities that effect sustainability definitions and parameters. For such a knowledgeable audience, there were quizzical glances on the material facts. He also cited the efforts of www.goodguides.com to rate products by scent and in an eco fashion. 

Mr. Burr seemed to  speak from the heart and set a humanist bar. More info on Mr. Burr and his publications are on his website.


SUSTAINABILITY AS A DRIVER FOR INNOVATION, Lauren Heine, Senior Science Advisor, Clean Production Action 

Dr. Heine's presentation is a must read when published. I am certain portions are already on Clean Production's website.  Lauren uses many graphics uncomplicating the benefits and role of Green Chemistry while combining sound science with chemical policy.  She highlighted the elements of Trust, what chemicals need examination; Emerging Science like endocrine disruption; Limitation of Data and market Response from NGO's or product benefit organizations like GoodGuide.

Her presentation described the wants of NGO's as innovation drivers using the basic tenants of green chemistry, reduce risk by reducing hazards. [risk=hazard x exposure] Future alternations should be guided by "cradle to cradle" attributes and seeing fragrance ingredients used in products that are rinsed down the drain as biological nutrients. 

Her solutions beside setting informed policy is practice informed substitution while aiming for the top. 


DEFINING "NATURAL" FOR THE PERSONAL CARE/ HOUSEHOLD PRODUCT INDUSTRIES, Jack Corley, Executive VP, Trilogy Fragrances, Inc.

This presentation is a must read when posted primarily due to the extensive product data.  Jack opened by discussing the potential for hazards with naturals and how organized are the market reactions. The "essential oil" suppliers came to understand  how overstating product perception as "safer" could be claimed as green washing (The Seven Sins) and that potential effect on the remarkable growth for casted by Mintel in personal care products. (600 m /2013) 

Mr. Corley has been intimately involved in setting Natural Products Association Standards expected to be released later this year. To appreciate and understand evidence based information on essential oils, Mr. Corley referenced Sloan Kettering's website.

It will be interesting to the Green Nose how DfE's data matches the Natural Products data since both are yet to be released.


MARKETING AND BRANDING WITH FRAGRANCE, Harold Vogt, Founder & Chief Marketer, Scent Marketing Institute

I found this presentation on large space airfreshening for work and residential places interesting because Harold was very straightforward about the importance of delivering a cleaned environment with scent. And his future challenge to provide customer protection in a growing product segment that needs to be sensitive to multi-sensitive people.

The Green Nose found Mr. Vogt very current in his scent knowledge, formulation requirements, quality and customer satisfaction processes, and need to actually create a "no scent" effect with fragrance. Mr. Vogt demonstrated his personal responsibility to stay involved in this technical forum. 


CARBON FOOTPRINTING A GRREN CLEANING PRODUCT: A STEP TOWARDS SUSTAINABILITY, Margret Whittaker, Managing Director and Chief Toxicologist, TOXSERVICES LLC

Dr. Whittaker's in depth presentation and the importance of understanding carbon footprinting deserves a strong read when the presentation is posted. Her firm is now one of the third party reviewers for DfE and will be working with small and large DfE sponsors. Their studies are extensive and take 200 - 500 hours. 

The definition of carbon footprinting is measuring greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions caused by a particular activity or entity. (note: Dr. Whittaker is not a fan of offsets) They look at the company level and the product level. In her opinion, better or worse, consumers want a "low carbon economy." Standards for product analysis is available on the web under PAS 2050. This is the start of the process map. In the end the results must be validated by independent certification. 

Margaret suggests to start with your facility first. There are two other less reliable methods, one to complete a "life cycle assessment" and the other is an online carbon footprint calculator. 

For the formulator, a packaging study is the easiest way to reduce your footprint. Fragrances are a boundary item, therefore most of her presentation is for the formulator.



ALTERNATIVES TO ANIMAL IN TOXICITY TESTING, Paul Locke, Associate Professor, John Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health and Center for Alternatives to Animal Testing

Again another involved presentation that warrants a complete read. Mr. Locke is an attorney (recovering, his line) who spoke toward the implications of reduced/ no animal testing for public health protection.  He addressed emerging trends such as the public call for transparency, the many data gaps, and four stages of evidence based toxicity.  In the next five years he stated dose response/ extrapolation modeling/ high throughput of molecular mechanism; along with regulatory context shift in focus from special outcomes to perturbation (change in physical outcomes) will be the norm.

The other driver will be REACH, whose implication will be actually understanding and integrating new data.

The alternative, in his opinion, will be to litigate as an attempt to delay.

   



 

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Sustainable Fragrances for Cleaners Conference

Just returned late last night from the conference. I'll start reporting on the presentations tomorrow. The program was insightful and an excellent forum for the speakers and attendees to civilly exchange their views, vision, and capabilities. The attendance was impressive and representative of the skill sets needed to execute and communicate a better future. I observed that the presenters and delegates were attentive, serious and respectful to each other. There was nary a jaded glance. 

The program organizers, IntertechPira, and the Senior Conference Producer, Jessica Johnson deserve praise for providing a professional setting and program. 

 


Monday, June 1, 2009

June/ American Rivers Month

Please give pause to what we can do right now to ensure clean river ways. One simple suggestion is to take immediate measures to eliminate the use of emerging chemicals of concern often described as personal care chemicals. Most of these identified chemicals, in particular fragrance materials do not have suitable replacements. But there does exist enough safe aquatic non-toxic aromatics to produce attractive compounds. 

Lets develop marketing platforms to shift consumer and professional cleaning product users away from trickle down odor trends to sensible environmentally safe fragrances and essential oils..... embrace, empower and transform.